Africa Through My Parents' Eyes

NOTE: I think it goes without saying, but when you see blue type that means you can click to a website with more information on the subject.

It's hard to write about this trip without thinking about my folks. Those who know them -- and I still find it nearly impossible write about them in the past tense -- know they would have been overjoyed that I am taking this trip.

For the past six weeks I have been consumed with thoughts of my parents. I think of them at least every day, if not every hour of every day.

My parents' lives were so full of accomplishments that I won't name them here. Suffice it to say that many people are living happier and more enriched lives because of them. But much as they gave to others, they chose to give themselves one special gift: the gift of travel -- just as I am giving myself this very same gift now. (I am, of course, my parents' daughter.)

For your enjoyment, here are my thoughts on Africa as I believe my parents would have seen it:

My dad would have loved the fact that you can get calamari everywhere. And I do mean everywhere, with the exception of KFC. (I checked.) Like KFC, that deals solely in chicken, which is a big mistake here, Africa has chains that deal solely in calamari. Always fried the way my dad liked it. They even offer calamari burgers. I don't think my dad ever tasted a calamari burger, but I'm sure he would have been nuts about it. (I stuck to the bun-free calamari, which was deliriously fresh and delicious.)

My dad would also have loved the fact that I found a beautiful place to stay at super bargain rates. The Backpack (definitely not what the name connotes) was right in the heart of Cape Town's hippest district and offered family-style accommodations at $30 a night. They invented the category of "boutique backpack accommodations" 17 years ago and have been named "hostel of the year" for the last three years running.

My dad would have been thrilled that everyone at the Backpack -- and I do mean everyone -- remembered my name from the moment I checked in. He would have delighted in those subtle ways that they treated me as family by teasing a bit and recommending their favorite places to explore and dine. Just about the only time I realized I wasn't staying as a guest in a family members' home was when I was presented with my bill at checkout.

(Of course, in addition to all of the above, I loved the fact that the Backpack was the first place in Cape Town to commit to fair trade for tourism, a commitment that includes working wages for everyone -- including housekeepers and maintenance crew -- a focus on diversity, and community service through their work with a local township and an AIDS orphanage.)

My mom would have loved the fact that my dad found the calamari, which he so craved. She wouldn't have liked the fact that he ate it because it wasn't good for him, but she would have let that go. At some point, you just have to make the decision to live a happy life and it was clear in those last couple of years that they'd both made that decision.

My mom would also have loved exploring the nooks and crannies of Cape Town. In particular, she would have loved the little cafes.

(One morning after she'd had radiation, we were having breakfast at The Half Day Cafe when she told me that eating out wasn't so much about the food as it was about watching people and chatting. For her, chatting typically included extended conversations with the staff, who seemed to delight in serving our table. Given her strong relationships, we tended to go to the same places most days and sit in the same areas. She developed such close ties with the wait staff that I had to visit the restaurants after my mom passed to tell them what had happened. Her illness had never been acknowledged, but during the last four or five weeks of her life it was very clear that the brain cancer was taking its toll.)

My mom and dad would also have loved the once in a lifetime experiences. They'd pass on things like skydiving and budgie jumping (two things I plan to do at some point during this trip -- although they would be happy to know that I have purchased the "special athletic" rider insurance.) They would, however, have been deeply moved by the trip to Robben Island, where Mandela spent most of his 27 year imprisonment for spearheading the struggle against apartheid. They would have loved Table Mountain, although they probably would have taken the tram (as I did) rather than climb (and I do mean climb) to the top of the 3,500 foot mountain.

They both would have loved the safari, but they certainly wouldn't have gone with Dragoman, which aptly brands itself "not your everyday journey". Never -- not at the age of 30, 50, or, in their case, 75. Instead, they would have been over the moon to take a moderately priced overland safari. If my dad had lived long enough, he probably would have found it, too. His greatest joy in life, aside from his relationship with my mom, was surfing the 'net for high quality bargain vacations.

The only thing they would not have liked about this trip would have been the crime rate. They loved strolling at night and you can't do that in Cape Town. You can't even walk the three blocks from this internet cafe to the Backpack after sundown. They would have hated that. They also wouldn't have liked the fact that in order to ensure their own safety the merchants have to buzz you in to visit their stores.

But that is the way of Cape Town right now, and they are doing their best to address it. The country is overjoyed to be hosting the Rugby World Cup in 2010. The World Cup is akin to winning the Olympic Bid for this country and should be an enormous boost for both the country and the economy. That win has given all of South Africa the inspiration do whatever it takes to create a safe environment (as well as a new rugby stadium).

In closing, my mom and dad would have loved their time here. And because I so often see the world through their eyes, I love it, too. (Even the calamari.)